Eat, Drink, Bowl. Dining at All Star Lanes is billed as a third of the appeal, but the traditional American menu will satisfy the most fastidious gourmand. Reputed to have the best burgers and steaks in the capital, the diner menu has an extensive list of specialities from Deep South Cajun to New York sirloin via Chicage ribs and barbecue sauce, served by the most entertaining staff in town.

Strikingly good food.

Review: All Star Lanes, Whiteleys, Bayswater, W2. Bookings; 020 7313 8363.

Satisfying a family group of mixed ages is the ultimate test for a restaurant – and one that All Star Lanes passed with flying colours on a weekend lunchtime visit.

Drinks?  The younger children opted for milk shakes (vanilla, chocolate – and so good they demanded seconds), an 11-year-old tried a Cream Soda (cherry with a scoop of vanilla ice-cream with syrup and seltzer) and adults – who could have chosen from an encyclopaedic list of authentic American cocktails, champagne, wine and beer – couldn’t resist the delicious fresh watermelon and carrot juices. The Inbetweenies, aka cool teenagers, loved the non-alcholic cocktails.

The waiter knew exactly how to handle children. Do the ribs come with beans, one child asked timorously. “Beans? Now why would they come with beans!?” came the reassurance. Can I please have fries with my burger, asked another. “Fries in your burger? Anything you’d like!” Cue, laughter all-round . 

We started with salt and pepper popcorn squid to share. Zingily seasoned, crisp and hot, these nibbles were a hit even with children who declared they don’t like seafood. A Santa Fe prawn cocktail looked as sophisticated as it tasted, beautifully presented in a tall glass bowl with diced red and yellow pepper, watercress and shredded lettuce.

The next course turned us into the Flintstones as enormous platters of Bourbon Glazed Baby Back Ribs arrived to be wolfed down in record speed. Burgers, one with added bacon, another with avocado, were deemed excellent, while the hot dog-eaters gave a thumbs-up sign. A hearty 8oz New York Striploin steak came with a nicely authentic foie gras sauce. For a taste of the Deep South, pan-roasted jerk-spiced catfish with succotash (a creamy mix of broad beans, peas, corn and bacon) could not be surpassed.

Dessert – for those who had eyes bigger than their tummies – came in the form of a delicious Oreo Cheesecake scattered, oh heaven, with mini marshmallows and a Knickerbocker Glory, oozing berries, ice cream and meringue, as decadent a confection as you could possibly desire.  And then,  it was off to burn off some calories in the lanes!